Module 5 Chapter 10. Stitching to translate

In this chapter the task has been to translate some of the rubbings from the previous chapter into stitchery using mainly one stitch for each whilst bringing in as many variations as needed to achieve the desired effect.Threads and yarns  of different thicknesses and texture also add to the end result.

It was a matter of identifying a simple shape consistent through out the rubbing and choosing a stitch
to represent it. This was intriguing as the rubbings reveal very different markings. I also did some rubbings on fabric and then stitch into those which was very effective.

10.1 Stitched translation of rubbing of tissue paper relief representing Teasels

The rubbing of the teasels bore some resemblance to the paper relief showing longitudinal marks diagonally and vertically across the sample.

For this I used Chain Stitch in its many variations including detached chain, elongated detached chain some with long or short tails, and a twisted chain to couch the stems.

It is worked over a rubbing on chiffon over linen. I’m really pleased with this and the rubbing adds a beautiful ethereal feel.

Threads used are rayon ribbon, fine crochet cotton and cotton perle.

There is a fabric rubbing in the surround [top right] on polycotton.

You may have noticed that I've placed the chiffon on the linen the wrong way round so the teasels are placed opposite ways to the rubbing but I didn't have the heart to undo it!

10.2 Stitched translation of rubbings scrunched tissue and chocolate box paper relief representing Ivy, stick & undergrowth

A stitched sample worked in Double Knot or Palestrina Stitch on linen.

This was inspired by the knotted appearance of the rubbing [top left]. I was fascinated by how different in appearance this was from the paper relief and loved the feeling of rhythm and movement it brought to the work.

The threads used were silk yarn, Gutterman polyester machine thread, rayon ribbon, linen thread, cotton perle and a wool yarn.

I have included some rubbings on fabric as the surround which are : centre right – Markel stick on linen; bottom right Markel stick on polycotton and centre Markel stick on chiffon over linen.

10.3 Stitched translation of rubbings of scrunched and folded tracing and grease proof paper relief representing an Ivy Clad Ditch

Again the rubbings gave a different impression to the paper relief and suggestive of arrows shooting off in every direction hence my choice of Arrow Stitch worked in various sizes and directions in strips of Chinese silk plus single and double thickness linen thread.

There is a rubbing on polycotton fabric on the centre right.

I certainly had to look harder at the rubbing as I stitched on the bare fabric.

  

10.4 Stitched translation of rubbings of strips of gathered copy paper relief to represent Cow Parsley

I was delighted with this rubbing. I adore cow parsley and the sight of it immediately transports me home to the Somerset Levels!

Fly Stitch instantly revealed itself to me and I decided to use it as I had in my informal sample [chapter 9] in a clockwise fashion to form circles, other stitches are worked around the edges according to the rubbing.

I’ve used linen threads of different thicknesses

I worked on the polycotton rubbing to demonstrate the effect as I’d already used the chiffon in sample 10.1 although I think the rubbing on chiffon on the left surround is really beautiful, I’d use this instead in the future as I think it captures the fairyland feel that cow parsley can give.

I'm really proud of the work in the last 3 chapters and I'm looking forward to the next and the challenges it brings as I work towards the final piece.

Chapter 8 revisited

I have revisited Chapter 8 briefly to look at a couple of samples following Sian's helpful feedback.

Sample 1 [top] shows a layered piece of wool and cotton which the relief was created by shrinking to give a quilted appearance to which I'd added a strip of gathered chiffon to add a further dimension representing the ivy clad ditch. Sian suggested I add the chiffon prior to shrinking.
 I too was intrigued.

The results were just as pleasing although less gathered as I relied on the shrinking to manipulate the fabric something to consider should I decide to use this at a later stage.

Sian made 2 more suggestions:
 Firstly that I the teasels in samples 8 and 9 could be attached as part of the tuck making stage perhaps as part of an up-side-down tuck.
Secondly that a tea stained effect may work well So I combined both suggestions in one added sample. The effect of the tea upon the silk muslin really enhances the texture of the fabric and it's undulations.
I love the effect of the teasel added to the up-side-down tuck, a lovely contrast to the cable stitched tucks either side,

More beautiful threads

I came across these gorgeous threads at Olympia whilst visiting this spring's Knitting and Stitching Show - beautiful box of Swedish threads available from Hoya Obscura. Linen, silk and cotton. Thread heaven and bought with my Module 5 samples in mind!

Module 5 Chapter 9 Threads and Stitchery

This chapter is about looking at threads and their purpose for this module.

So what is a thread?

A thread is defined as anything that can be threaded through a fabric surface and in this instance we have been encouraged to use traditional embroidery threads plus more diverse and interesting non traditional threads such as knitting yarns, machine threads, metallic threads, wire, string, ribbons, strips of fabric and plastic, dried grasses, shoe laces and raffia. These could also include solid items such as sticks, twigs, hair pins etc. A whole range of exciting textures to explore as we experiment with different 'threads' which to stitch.

A variety ‘of threads’ are featured in the photos below – examples of those gathered as part on my research for this chapter.

9.1

Stitches and Stitching

There are hundreds of embroidered stitches to learn and play with and we have been asked to to experiment with a variety of shapes and formation. I have taken inspiration from the following sources:

The Constance Howard Book of Stitches Constance Howard Batsford 2005

Stitches: New Approaches Jan Beaney Batsford 2004

Embroidery Jessie Hughes Evans Practical Handbooks 1963

Stitchschool.blogspot.co.uk

Youtube Bees needlework videos

artanddesigns.com/glossary

www.embroidery.rocksea.org

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wWpKAdTwbbM&sns=fb

www.needlenthread.com

Here is my work in progress! A sunny day in my studio. Stitching and coffee - great combination:


9.2

I've looked at each batch of stitches for labelling purposes: 

9.3 Flat stitches 1

1. Back stitch

2. Arrow stitch

3. Cross stitch

4. Chevron stitch

5. Satin stitch

9.4 Flat stitches 2

1. Thorn stitch with thread used for spine

2. Thorn stitch without spine

3. Dot stitch

4. Darning

5. Stem stitch in various sizes

9.5 Looped Stitches

1.Wave stitch

2.Buttonhole /

 blanket stitch

3.Feather stitch

4. Fly stitch

5. Cretan stitch

9.6 Chained stitches 1

1. Cable chain

2. Double chain

3. Detatched chain

4. Twisted chain

9.7 Chained stitches 2

1. Braid stitch in 

metallic threaded

2. Braid stitches 

small / large versions.

3.Wheatear stitch

4. Split stitch

5. Braided chain

9.8 Knotted stitches

1. French knot

2. Bullion knot

3. Coral knot

4. Antwerp stitch

 [knotted blanket stitch]

5. Knotted diamond stitch

6. Peking or Chinese knot

9.9 Composite stitches 1

1. Whipped chain

2. Raised chevron

3. Chevron stem

4. Raised chain

5. Raised stem stitch

6. Portugese border stitch

7. Laced herringbone

    stitch 

9.10 Composite stitches 2

1. Guilloche border stitch

2. Pekinese threaded stitch

3. Twisted lattice made up

 of a double and twisted 

herringbone

9.11 Another composite stitch below:

Needle weaving 

Although the Hollie stitch below is another knotted stitch, worked here in error!

Stitch effects

Treating the stitch as a way of mark making, looking at how a stitch is formed, the size, shape, how it looks in a group or built up as a single unit. I'm looking for interesting patterning and negative spacing which give way to exciting rhythms.

I selected the Fly Stitch - read on below:

9.12 and 9.13

This was very exciting - working with stitches to develop different effects, this was the first set and made up of formal stitch rhythms. I loved the surprising patterns which emerged, really exciting challenge!













To add to the excitement the next exercise was to create informal effects with the same stitch, these are not to be random but rather more thought out to bring about more rhythmic patterns. I took the original formal stitch samples and did a sketch to try and transform them into an informal representations as presented below.

Here are 2 sheets of the transformations:

9.14, 9.15 & 9.16

This is the informal set as a finished sheet of samples. 
This process has been fascinating. The possibilities posed by the variations of a single stitch in this way and the energy they create within themselves has been very exciting.

I'm looking forward to the next stage and making rubbings from my paper reliefs in chapter 3 to provide added inspiration for stitching.

Rubbings from Paper Relief Surfaces in Chapter 3

Through taking rubbings of my relief surfaces I have created marks that relate to the surface beneath whilst creating a different interpretation; through this they provided a fresh perspective. 
I've used  light weight black papers i.e. tissue paper and a 80 gsm paper [other heavier papers were too thick for a rubbing to appear] with either a white Markel Oil Paint Stick or Caran D'Ache Neocolor wax pastels which were both soft enough to create a good rubbing  whilst other harder crayons etc left a poor result and tended to tear the papers.
Another option was a white copy paper rubbed with a white candle to form a resist against a wash of black Quink Ink.

Each sample is labelled accordingly below:

9.17, 9.18, 9.19, 9.20 & 9.21

These will be used to inform stitchery in the next chapter and to provide new textural and design ideas where a different angle is  required on a raised surface.
I can see many possibilities already and can't wait to get started on these!