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Chapter 10
Converting my design into embroidery
I have the go ahead
from my tutor, Sian Martin to go ahead with my chosen design by
repeating the image x4 so I took my decorated paper design to our
local printer and had 4 black and white copies made which when taped
together gave me the A1 design required.
And in colour:
This now gives
me an idea of the scale I’ll be working to and I can use this to
trace the outlines of the shapes of each separate area to produce a
pattern piece to help me determine the size and shape of each piece
to be embroidered.
The black and white
copy also gives me a different take on the textures featured in the
decorated papers, a useful reference compared with the coloured
original over one quarter of the design.
The next task is to
create samples which translate each decorated paper into an
embroidered surface using mainly machine stitchery and manipulated
fabric techniques. The embroidered surfaces must show a strong
relationship to the decorated papers in my design.
I need to pay
attention to:
-
colour and tone
-
the type of mark i.e. short, angular and linear or continuous, wide and curved
-
the size of textural marks i.e. large and bold or small and delicate
-
the rhythm and arrangement of marks
I now have to make 3
samples for each decorated paper in the design.
I could make these
up to be very different to enable exploration of alternatives or very
similar as I develop ideas.
When all 3 are
complete I will chose one for each different area of my design but
this needs to be considered carefully so that there is a sense of
co-ordination when they come together as a whole.
I need to look for a
common link between each of the embroidered areas. This could be
through technique, a particular fabric or a stitched method. These
became more obvious as I worked.
Samples 10.1
This is the
conversion of my base layer of decorated papers [ 9.3.d Cartridge
paper coloured with deep blue and turquoise acrylics and allowed to
dry. Over printed with lighter blue acrylic using bubble wrap.]
The base layer will
form the main stable backing for the wall hanging so I’ve chosen a
heavier felted woollen fabric which has been space dyed using Dylon
cold water dyes in Bahama Blue and Navy to which I added a fixative
made up of soda crystals and salt. When dry I added some monoprinted
patterning using bubblewrap and blue and orange acrylic paints with
Fabric Painting Medium added.
This resulted in the
rich, deep colour and texture I wanted
Sample 10.1.a
Free machine
stitching worked in circular pattern with deep blue on top and orange
on lower bobbin. I tightened the upper tension in places to produce
more of a whipped effect.
Sample 10.1.b
As before but with
snippets of blue and orange fabrics appliqued in place.
Sample 10.1.c
Layer of space dyed
felted wool overlaid with space dyed Chinese silk with a small
amount of bubble wrap printing added. Free machine stitching added in
circular and vermicelli style using blue thread on top and orange to
lower bobbin with whipped effect in places to accentuate the orange
printing. This was then washed in hot water to shrink the wool and
silk to produce a subtle quilted effect.
Sample 10.2
This is the
conversion of the third layer of my decorated papers representing the
central sphere
[ 9.3.b. Tissue
paper laid over a cardboard rubbing board and silver wax crayon used
to create a rubbing. Aquamarine and turquoise Brusho sponged the
surface over at random].
10.2.a
This is a
manipulated fabric sample with free machine embroidery added.
Bands of fabric
namely from top to bottom: space dyed silk, silk painted silk, space
dyed cotton organdie, repeat space dyed silk.
Bands of these have
been gathered on the machine using a wide straight stitch and
gathered, tacked to a backing fabric and free machine embroidered
using a wide zigzag and whip stitch horizontally following the
direction of the gathers.
Blue thread on top
and turquoise underneath with a hint of orange in places.
This has produced a
beautiful undulated effect.
10.2.b
Another manipulated
fabric sample with added free machine embroidery.
Corded quilting
using the back surface as the front.
2 layers of fabric.
Space dyed linen and silk muslin [the latter becoming the front].
Pairs of machine stitching made in normal straight stitch using blue
machine thread.
String previously
used to make an Arashi Shibori sample threaded through the channels
of stitching.
Sample then
scrunched together and random free machine embroidery used to add
distortion using the blue machine thread as before on top and ochre
yellow / turquoise to lower bobbin. Whip stitch effect added.
10.2.c
A further corded
quilting sample.
Backing random dyed
linen and silk painted bamboo silk satin [the latter becoming the
front].
I used twin needles
to stitch channels with blue / turquoise threads to top and turquoise
below.
Am embroidery floss
and stranded cotton used individually or both together and threaded
through the channels. I also added some small lengths of random dyed
threads for dashes of orange.
Added channels added
with free zigzag stitching with single needle but 2 threads
maintained on top and turquoise below with loose bobbin tension
resulting in a whipped effect. This stitching was also threaded with
stranded cotton and one left as it is.
I love this last image and it has evoked other words
describing the topic:
Ethereal
Balance
Elegance
Fragility
Serenity
Suspended
Atmospheric
I can’t help but
think of the recently coined phrase ‘Blue planet’.
Samples 10.3
This is the conversion of the second
layer of decorated papers representing the movement of the water’s
surface
[9.3.a Tissue paper
crunched into a ball, backing of cartridge paper covered with PVA
onto which the tissue paper smoothed evenly over and flattened with a
dry paint brush. Allowed to dry and then a wash of blue Brusho
applied, Chalk pastel rubbed over the raised surfaced when dry].
My final design
resulted in 2 shades of this decorated paper – the first are
lighter and represented by samples a, b, and c whilst samples d and
e the darker.
Sample 10.3.a
Supported on
Solufleece cold water soluble fabric
Nylon chiffon
fabric. Free sideways zigzag. Chiffon tucked as I stitched. Turquoise
thread below, pale blue variegated thread on top [whipped effect] and
blue thread added in afterwards for tonal value.
I envisage this
[transparent chiffon] being laid over the dark background layer
Sample 10.3.b
Solufleece as a
support. Random dyed scrim with free sideways zigzag. Blue on top and
turquoise below. Whipped effect.
Sample 10.3.c
Solufleece to
support, Twin needle with blue and turquoise threads through twin
needles and turquoise below. Worked on chiffon which was tucked as I
stitched. Followed by free sideways zigzag using a single needle but
with the two top threads remaining.
Sample 10.3.d
Solufleece as a
support. Free sideways zigzag in blue on top and turquoise below,
whipped effect. Snippets of random dyed silk added
Sample 10.3.e
Manipulted fabric
plus machine stitchery sample
Shibori dyed Chinese
silk. Pleats captured with twin needle using blue and turquoise to
top and turquoise below. Horizontal gathering added by hand at
irregular intervals
First 2 pics show Arashi Shibori dyeing process:
Absolutely thrilled with this result:
And the embroidered result:
Samples 10.4.
This is the
conversion of the third layer of decorated papers repeated this
time to represent the blade of the turbine
[9.3.a Tissue paper
laid over a cardboard rubbing board and silver wax crayon used to
create a rubbing. Aquamarine and turquoise Brusho sponged the surface
over at random].
Because this
represents the blades of the turbine I’m looking to achieve a
sharper and more powerful image.
10.4.a
Quilted sample, 2
layers fabric, top dyed Chinese silk and underneath calico plus
polyester wadding.
Space dyed silk
lozenges and strips stitched with sideways zigzag in dark blue and
turquoise and whipped effect and appliqued onto padded background and
secured with line of straight stitch and couched silver metallic
embroidery thread.
10.4.b
Quilted sample, 2
layers fabric - bamboo silk satin coloured with silk paints and
linen, polyester wadding.
Horizontal wavy
lines of silver metallic thread worked in cable stitch to show on
bamboo silk satin side.
10.4.c
Base layer of space
dyed silk, lozenge and strip of Crystal organza stitched with
sideways zig zag and twin needle wavy lines in dark blue thread to
add texture and then appliqued in place with couched metallic
embroidery thread to outline shapes.
Samples 10.5
Decorated paper from
previous sample repeated again, this time representing the half
sphere on the far left and right of the design which is intended to
depict the power of the waves and replenished energy
Sample 10.5.a
Crystal organza
worked with twin needle channels, fabric tucked as I worked. Self
coloured machine thread dark blue with touches of orange
10.5.b
Painted silk as base
fabric with turquoise free sideways zigzag over stitched by sideways
zigzag cable stitch in silver metallic embroidery threaded
10.5.c
10.5.c
Nylon chiffon
stitched with sideways zigzag using dark blue and turquoise thread
with whipped effect plus a touch of orange to add a pop of colour.
Fabric tucked as I stitched. Over stitched with sideways zigzag cable
stitch in silver metallic embroidery thread
Samples 10.6
This is the fourth
layer of converted decorated papers [9.2.d Bubble wrap painted at
random with orange and yellow ochre acrylics].
N.B
All these samples
are laid over a snippet of the base layer [see samples 10.1] as they
will be transparent.
10.6.a
Double layer of
nylon chiffon worked with orange thread in free zigzagged circles.
Underneath a strip of free tiny zigzag worked in circles on
Solufleece.
10.6.b
Free zigzagged
circles worked on cellophane
10.6.c
Free straight stitch
and zigzagged circles worked on single layer of nylon chiffon
My choices - one sample from each section.
I feel the common elements throughout the final choices are
The types of fabric mostly silk for its watery qualities plus nylon chiffon for it's transparency
Colourways blue and turquoise with snippets of orange for added vibrancy
The stitching - mainly sideways free zigzag for directional impact
Metallic embroidery thread used for cable stitch
I feel the common elements throughout the final choices are
The types of fabric mostly silk for its watery qualities plus nylon chiffon for it's transparency
Colourways blue and turquoise with snippets of orange for added vibrancy
The stitching - mainly sideways free zigzag for directional impact
Metallic embroidery thread used for cable stitch
Base or first layer - 10.1.b I like the more defined and textured areas of the appliqued 'bubbles' which will be picked up in other areas of the hanging especially the 6th section.
Second layer - 10.2.c I love this sample, I feel it will convey the spherical 'earthly' qualities well and it has an ethereal feel which fits well with the Blue Planet portrayal.
Third layers - 10.3.a The stitching has a lovely watery feel and I love the way the chiffon's transparency will reveal the depths below the water's surface.
10.3.e - The pleats and gathers portray a more directional and powerful flow of water which suggests movement.
Fourth layer - 10.4.a I feel this has a more solid and metallic feel [ turbine like] and that the shapes within reflect the shape of the turbine slicing through the wind and harnessing power.
Fifth layer - 10.5.b The stitching, especially the metallic cable stitch will link in well with the metallic thread elsewhere.
Sixth layer - 10.6.a The double layer of nylon chiffon has a lovely bubbly quality and the under layer of free circular stitching adds texture and body
I have added a key below of one quarter [to be repeated x 4 as per pic at the beginning of this post]
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